Per his show notes, the designer said: “To work with Huntsman in such a way that has been so much about detail and craft is a real honor. In doing so, Fletcher truly exercised the notion of less is more. ![]() Shearling made multiple appearances, but seldom became the focal point. But beyond that, the lines referenced the designer’s frequent use of top-stitching and stripes, something that came to fruition on double-breasted suit jackets, scallop-edged denim shirts, wide-leg pants and corsetry.Īll this and more was paired with the kind of “Quiet Luxury” that doesn’t feel stuffy or old-fashioned - wool was rich in a cream-tan tone and enveloped a model in a pajama uniform fit for off-duty jaunts, while large shearling collars spread across the neck on a blue-gray suede jacket, accented with leather gloves. In no particular order: morning coats draped on hard wood floors with the silk billowing behind the model jackets featured nipped waists, enlarged shoulders, and long pleated backs the suit basting was left exposed on everything from workwear-derived boiler suits to formalwear and Fletcher’s signature A-line coat and bulletproof vest tops were transformed into works of armor-like corsets, tieing at the rear to give posture and pronounced presence.īasting is typically removed, but Fletcher kept it in for a modern feel. The result was a phenomenal display of contemporary sartorialism. ![]() Working with Huntsman - a 174-year-old tailor renowned for making some of the finest clothes in the world - Fletcher delivered nine bespoke suits and 12 ready-to-wear styles that carried influence from both Fletcher and Huntsman’s archives. ![]() It was an ode to craftsmanship, and while this is always a cornerstone of Fletcher’s output, FW23 felt like a momentous example of why he is London’s fashion darling. Debuted in opulence at The Royal Academy of Arts’ “The Fine Rooms” space, the collection unfolded with immediate gravitas.
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